Describe what happens to a deep-water wave as it approaches a beach and enters shallow water. How does it change as it begins to interact with the ocean floor, becoming a transitional wave then a shallow-water wave? What conditions would have to be met for the wave to break?

Geography by Geoffrey

Earth and Space Exploration

  1. Describe what happens to a deep-water wave as it approaches a beach and enters shallow water. How does it change as it begins to interact with the ocean floor, becoming a transitional wave then a shallow-water wave? What conditions would have to be met for the wave to break?
  2. Explain what each variable in Newton’s Law of Gravitational Attraction means. Further, describe how this equation explains the differences between the sun and the moon’s contribution to tide-generating forces.